It’s a hard power switch – shutting off the power supplies completely when the amp is powered off. I heard it side-by-side with the 685V Yamaha A/V Home Theater Receiver, the latter of which puts out 100 watts per channel into 8 ohms (this puts out 85W per channel into 8 ohms), with the same music, and the same Infinity floorstanding speakers (no idea which models). An external Bluetooth receiver connected to the 501 via optical cable & paired with your iPhone. Let’s make this clear; it doesn’t fall apart, more that the sense of control and stability is diminished as if the amplifier just can’t quite keep up. Given that you get AirPlay, internet radio and DLNA into the mix it is quite a bargain and would be the way I would go. Hopefully a happy one :). trying to make my mind up between the A-S501 and the cambridge audio topaz SR20 – any thoughts?? These Yamaha A-S501/701/801 are very reliable and gives a very clean sound and no distortion. Mike. Listen to all kinds of music, but really like sitting back and putting on the Eagles. So I bought these Triangle Altea Ex manually made in France. Sound is subjective of course, so the only way you’ll know for sure would be to audition them for yourself. However, the NR 1506 receiver with 5.2 and networking is available for only USD 30.00 more. Buy Yamaha A-S501 Integrated Amplifier (Silver) featuring 100W x 2 (6 Ohm RMS) Power Output, Optical and Coaxial Inputs, Speaker A, B or A+B Selection, Subwoofer Out, Continuously Variable Loudness Control, Pure Direct Mode, Power Management (Auto Power Off), Reinforced Chassis, Symmetrical Layout, Brushed Aluminum Front Panel. Pioneer A-40AE. As with most power amplifiers the headphone out is an afterthought. Thanks, glad you like the reviews. The alternative would be to have a look at something like the Marantz CD-6006 UK edition which is exceptional and built like a tank as most Marantz kit is. If the vintage amp has been overhauled by a qualified technician, and they have a detailed description of all the work carried out, then it may be worth it. Marantz amplifiers are warmer sounding and their vocal reproduction is outstanding, as is their ability to reproduce guitars and other acoustic instruments in particular. Yamaha - A-S501 240W 2-Ch. How would you expect it to perform on digital inputs through bluetooth>, Sadly I didn’t try the yamaha adapter. I don’t like the way music sounds when streamed from smartphones / tablets, so the lack of bluetooth is no concern for me. Thanks everyone for all the feedback and recommendations! Originally several years ago it would start slipping towards the end of a CD it originally started doing it and I had it fixed under warranty. So my ending observation to this story is this. However this compound only serves to attract dust and is a static magnet. 2 Direct signal path speaker relays and an optimised circuit layout offers the shortest possible signal paths, while Yamaha’s pure direct mode allows you to bypass the tone, loudness and balance controls and the input buffer amp shortening signal paths even further. I’m afraid not as the A-S501 does not have a record out selector or a true tape monitor function. Thx again having a big flac format folder in my laptop and stream through AS501 and have hifi resolution. Failing that, you may have a faulty mid range driver. Cheers. It’s the speaker. Please tell me, which speakers will be better choice for Marantz PM6006, Monitor Audio Bronze 2 or Q Acoustics 3020? New records should be cleaned also. The RX-V475 actually has the same vol control/preamp chip as the A-S501 so you do the math.. By the way, you mentioned "seating distance is about 10-12ft and I like music medium to a little bit higher. I am very excited to get my A-S501 today! I hope I’ll get sound improvements with better DAC, and that input signal bypass internal Yamaha’s DAC…. What do you think about the Yamaha YBA-11 connected to the AS-501 amp? Next step is replacing my old Peerless speakers.. Hi, If you’re not keen on the Arcam’s aesthetics, there are plenty of cheap bluetooth adapters on the market which will do the job such as this one http://amzn.to/1VQNUId. The Pro-Ject VC-S is the best value machine on the market currently, I reviewed it Here. I’m planning to use my old Allison Acoustics “Allison III” floor standing corner speakers, which are not terribly efficient but have some of the cleanest, tightest bass and clear mids and highs I’ve experienced over the last 40 years. Most reviews for audio equipment seem are so full of hot air that I find myself rolling my eyes involuntarily. Of course if you like the Cambridge sound, there’s also the 351A and 651A both of which can be had for a very good price now. I was wondering which, if any, outboard DACs you’d recommend to complement this amp. I belong to an AV forum and they all reckon my amp is excellent but their thoughts on the Streamer are very mixed. As a professional player for the last 50 years I was of course attracted to fine audio in my mid twenties (some 40 plus years ago). A IMPEDANCE SELECTOR switch Power cable (A-S501/S301) CAUTION Used to connect this unit to an AC wall outlet Do not change the IMPEDANCE SELECTOR switch (see page 10). Now, you mentioned that the Yamaha will make the MA’s sound a little bright. The purpose would be replay of FLAC files from PC with optical S/PDIF or USB connection available for the most part. If the problem still persists, I will take the amp back and take another one. With a DLNA server running you can access your FLAC files directly from the CD-N301. If not, a cheap USB DAC will do a far better job than the YBA-11. The Revolution XT Minis are right in budget too and are great if you don’t need room-shaking bass. Do you have any recommendations? I might later on buy a new disc player. cable is recommended. A Bluetooth adapter will also work but the Qed will sound better. Many thanks for your expert guidance. If you recommend buying certain parts first that would be handy. I would like a more balanced sound and it seems this is not as suitable with the MA’s. While the A-S501 offers several advantages over its predecessor, including a built-in DAC, upgraded components and revised circuitry, it’s still the same amp we all know and love. If not, A-S501. Even at low levels, the A-S501 manages to convey an impressive level of detail. I wouldn’t rule out trying the 801 if a good deal comes up in the future although I read somewhere you can’t use an external DAC with it (don’t know how this is possible or if people are just saying that so they can use the savings on the 701 towards buying their own external DAC). You sir are helping people find incredible sounding stereo gear for a fraction of what it would have cost 30 or 40 years ago. to confirm even with Yamaha support. the DAC (digital to analogue converter) in a laptop isn’t particularly good either. Just a quick feedback. I apologize in advance for asking so many questions and thank you very, very much. Thanks. Great Job Ashley! But I’d certainly agree it could be better. N-602 has built in blue tooth, and better yet let’s you steam over wi-fi, and it has a variable loudness control knob which I love. I want to buy a new amp and now I’m in doubt between the A-S501 and the NAD C 316 v2. I wanted the digital inputs and not spending a lot, so that Yamaha A-S501 was what I needed. Its low-level sound is soft and inviting, if a little lacking in bass – but that’s where the variable loudness comes into play. They’re covered during manufacturing in a layer of mould release compound, which prevents them sticking to the stamper. Sorry for the newbie questions as I am new to this. I can’t therefore give you a recommendation based on something I personally use regularly. Personally I rip my CDs to 320KBPS MP3 using iTunes. Advertiser Disclosure. Nice. For streaming from the tablet, Bluetooth is fine in many cases. Or try this NAD or this model from Origin Acoustics. I plan on using a google audio to do most of my streaming, so wireless connectivity is taken care of, but it would be nice to have a decent DAC. All the best my friend, and keep up the great work, Keith. That appearance has hardly changed from its much-liked predecessor, the A-S500, something we’re perfectly happy with. I wonder if you can help me with an issue. Then add the Startech for the streaming. Being able to connect it to a TV/blu ray down the line would be icing on top. That top cover, with its huge cooling vents is supported by the internal central bar, denoted by the top screw near the front panel. What i mean is that the onboard dac of the Yamaha A-S501 is quite good and you can always use youre tv to get optical signal out and get a good sound . I’m looking for an amp to be used mainly in streaming (wifi or if not AirPlay). Thank you for your message. A multimeter will be a great help. Overall the Yamaha A-S501 is a capable amplifier. I don’t know if both amps have the Top ART construction. I really like what I’ve read above about the A-S501. Any thoughts out there on the way I should go? I saw you wrote a good review on that a couple of years ago. I just wanted to share an experience I thought you and your readers might appreciate. You should have 1 lead running to each speaker with the black (-) terminal on the amp connected to the black terminal on the speaker, and the red (+) terminal on the amp connected to the red terminal on the speaker. In direct comparison something like Marantz’s PM6005 sounds much more settled and confidant. Deciding between the Yamaha AS501 and the Marantz PM6005. I’ll try to get a demo. Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are. It really helps! Can they be replaced with the metal dials from the upper-level Yamaha amplifiers (A-S1000 and up)? It’s coherent, too – the amp never appears to struggle, even when pushed hard. Yes I can listen to the Marantz and will do so. My principle music listening is ‘classical’ large orchestral colours, chamber music and piano music and currently using 15 years old B&W CM610’s. Any thoughts on how to get the best bang for my buck? I am new to audiophile world of audio equipment and actually already ordered the Yamaha AS 501 to pair with my new Elac UB5 bookshelf speakers. I’m glad you enjoyed. A stand-alone amp will nearly always sound better than a receiver as the receivers are built to a cost and have to factor in more components and more research and development into the cost. Would it be a good combination? Ashley, thank you very much for your very thorough and insightful review. Take care. I think the A-S701 has a CD direct feature, so using the CD input will give you the best sound. BA1 1UA. At low-levels, so for background music, the Marantz struggles to convey the sound as well and really needs to be played a little louder otherwise it looses a lot of it’s range or depth. I too wish Japanese equipment was more widely reviewed. I have it paired with the Arcam irDAC-II which improves the sound even further to my ears but this has got me wondering something. I’m sure it would be quite possible to get it working reliably with a bit of DIY. However that should be perfectly acceptable. Possible to connect the usb or mobile phone to yamaha as501. I’ll also be connecting my Onkyo DX-C390 to the new A-S501. Does anyone know what the issue might be? Kind regards angela. Are there going to be any losses in sound? I use it for vinyl and with AirPlay from my iMac using optical from an Airport Express. I’d probably go with something like a Qed uPlay. D. They knew how to build amps back then. Hi Ashley,im new at this so thanks for your reveiw and all your sharing of information ,id appreciate your opinion on the pioneer bs 22 speakers with the as501 or as701.id be playing cds and records and then when i have more money id like the pioneer sp fs52 lr.☺ thankyou. My doubt here is in the amplifier to pair it with. It could be that the amp is cutting out because it thinks the speaker leads are shorted (either because they’re touching or because of an internal fault with the speakers which is unlikely), because it’s getting too hot or because of an internal fault. Also check between the crossover and terminals, though based on what you describe that’s unlikely to be where the problem lies. I have now connected a Modi Multibit DAC + Magni 2 Uber headphone amp (which also functions as pre-amp) to the Yamaha. It appears that the A-S501 is a very good replacement in terms of connectivity match and power output is similar. I’m leaning towards the AudioEngine or Focal one, myself. If you want the best from your headphones a dedicated amp is a must. I’m usually not a fan of built-in DACs. Unless you can be sure of the source, or have at least some experience in electronics, I would go with the modern amp with a warranty. Where do I connect the preamp? With my 4-ohm, 75 Watt, 90dB vintage speakers I can’t turn it up more than 45% without blowing my eardrums. My current amp has a clearly marked preamp connection. 1. I’ve not really heard much better for under a couple of thousand bucks. However, they did mention a couple of other things to consider. called Hunt Audio and purchased my first nice system. and 2) What CD player do you recommend that pairs perfectly with the AS 501? So if it were a case of damage by the previous owner it would more than likely be very noticeable and it’s unlikely that it would be intermittent. The digital section is all new and the Yamaha A-S501 â¦ ... YAMAHA A-S501 â¦ Nothing wrong with that as it’s very good. But what CD player do you use now with the AS501? The variable loudness control adjusts the amp to compensate for the way the human ear hears low frequencies. My overall budget is around £2k but will buy over the course of this year not in one go. Basically I’ll listen to electronic music such as dubstep, trance and house. Digital optical (or coaxial if the PS3 supports it), Ohh yeah nice I’ve been using optical but as of now i have an av receiver & when listening to music from an HDMI I didn’t really notice a difference but for games n movies only went to optical cuz people tend to say thay hear a difference in the channels. Cambridge Audio recommended the transport before realising there was no DAC in my Amp. THere’s no rule for matching speakers to an amp based on price, though it’s usually advisable to spend more on the speakers than the amp as they’ll have the greatest impact on the sound. The PM-6006 is out now and is the amp I’d probably choose, though it really depends on the sound you like. That volume control is motorised, allowing you to operate it from the remote control. The Marantz 6006 UK edition was on my shortlist as I had read many good reviews, I nearly nabbed one of the last 8005s for £599 but they only had silver/gold and my stuff is black. Take most of the comments on hi-fi fora with a pinch of salt. As to whether you should connect it with an RCA or optical cable, it’s really up to you. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but it does emphasise the high frequencies a little more which may not be the type of sound you’re looking for. As good as they are with a bit of work, I’d probably give them a miss. Not everybody wants the faff and there is nothing wrong with that. Currently I’m using a Harman Kardon AVR 630 in stereo mode, which is rated at 75w per channel I believe. Thanks for your kind words on the site. Good luck with the decision! 3. So, I guess I just have to search for a simple power amp. I’m looking at the 701, though it is a bit price restrictive for me right now. Both have internal DACs. Top of the 1000 range, I think, above the 1030 and 1060. There have already been some very helpful comments about the differences in sound here, but I’ll audition them both anyway. The same goes for interconnects and digital cables. I own a Yamaha NP-S303 Streamer and an AS1100 Amplifier which by and large I am pleased with. I’m keeping evidence of this and it reached like 45 hours of playing. England and Wales company registration number 2008885. I’m lost with this stuff. I believe the pot shafts are the same. So we should trust our ears after listening of course to a lot of LIVE music, and then just enjoy the search! You may even be able to pick up a pair of Tannoy Precisions now for very little money as they’ve been discontinued but there are still some floating around, would be worth asking Richer Sounds. The new amplifier also feels solid, and the controls work with a crisp precision that little else can match at this price. The tinkerer in me is curious to know what the 700/701 will sound like with the Arcam irDAC-II but I’ll only bite if it’s a good deal so I can sell it on without a loss if I still prefer my 501. Set the sample rate and channels to auto and make sure VBR is switched off. I talked to a friend of mine and he told me that de midrange was likely overused by the other owner of the speakers. Do you think this is a reasonable upgrade to the built in DAC in the Yamaha? I mean, if I’m not going to notice it when listening to music then it’s ok with me. Unfortunately the issue with dedicated streamers is the IP blocking employed by Spotify etc. The PM-8005 is more expensive but gives you higher power and a bigger power supply which depending on how loudly you play might be advantageous. Hi Ashley, I finally got my AS501 amp from yamaha like 2 weeks ago. The Yamaha RX V481 is also going for about the same price. Windows has one built in (though it’s enabled differently depending on the version you’re running), and there is software for the Mac if you’re on that platform. I want to use it for playing cd’s, for the internet radios and if possible to play FLAC music from my laptop. They focus on the new features added to the Yamaha A-S501 since the previous model the Yamaha A-S500 which they particularly liked. Ashley, thanks for your wonderful and thorough review of the Yamaha AS-501. 2. Hi Ashley, Thanks for the in depth and unbiased review. Would you be so kind to offer me a bit of advice. Reviews are clear, accurate and full of details. The Yamaha amps barely get warm. I’m getting the A-S501 with a pair of floor standing Monitor Audio Bronze 5. The pure direct is a good feature but with less well produced recording I turn this off and tweak the tone controls. The vents are also most effective – the A-S501 remaining cool to the touch even when pushed hard with difficult speakers. Is it a good choice for the A-S501? How will it pair together on youre opinion? Plenty of cheap DACs available such as This one. The reality is that good hi-fi is a balance between cost and quality engineering and that ultimately spending huge amounts of money on exotic components doesn’t necessarily buy you the best engineering. YBA-11 is not a hifi product The PS3 and FireTV (streaming prime music and Tidal) is connected to my TV via HDMI. In terms of the amp, what source components will you be using? You have 2 protections (named Polyswitch) on each cabinet, 1 on midrange/treble and 1 on Bass. With a DVD player you’re getting a lot of technology and circuitry that you’re not going to use and that ultimately detracts from the quality of the player. If it were me I’d have the Yamaha for the extra power, and to me (a fan of rock music) it would be a more fun listen. You can also disable the speakers entirely if you wish – and they’re automatically disabled when headphones are connected. Could I wiring it up wrong or is there an issue with actual amp? Just for the record, I think that vintage amp is a 1070. I currently have an audio/video receiver but solely use it and whatever my new amp winds up being for music. I’m a vinyl guy almost exclusively. glad you found the review helpful. As a result both the Yamaha and its headphone out sound much better now: gone is the sub-bass bump and slightly muffled sound. You are correct in that in your setup, you are using the DAC of the A-S501 via the optical input. As for the 602, though I’ve not spent a great deal of time with it I’d probably describe it more like a 501 with added streaming functionality. Would it be an issue with overheating and etc? In my opinion the Japanese have always had the best balance of value for money, engineering prowess, reliability and performance, but their components are often overlooked due to better marketing and brand bias and reputation particularly in the UK. Input will be from digital sources (TV, smartphone,Blu-ray player) and my 23 years old Technics SL PG440 CD player which any way has only analogue line outs. So does it even make sense to have this feature given the signal has to flow through my TV? If you just want to playback music video or the like from your mobile to your hi-fi, you can get a 3.5 jack to RCA cable and use any line input on the 501. Sooo, personally I’ll connect a dedicated headphone amp to it (like a Schiit Magni 2 / Asgard 2). Sorry if I’m overly focused on the headphone output. They react decreasing the level of each part when this component becomes too hot (after 20V). You will never achieve the same quality from a bluetooth connection as you from a hardwired connection. The Pure Direct function of your A-S501 gives a perfectly clean signal path, and as the circuits in these amps are well designed anyway it’s not a concern. If you’re looking for home theatre as opposed to 2 channel stereo, you’re better off with an AV receiver. Higher end amps in the Yamaha line tend to be more neutral in tonal character; the 701 is effectively a neutral 501, and the 801 adds a DSD-capable USB DAC with a few more changes. Yes, it lacks bluetooth and wireless and USB, but I’m guessing those take away from the dollars Yamaha spends on the actual power supply and amplification components (also the space inside the chassis! I have recently purchased the yamaha As501 and i intend to paired it with Q Acoustics 3020 speakers. The A-S501 shares a similar design to its predecessor – it’s a large amp, with a thick aluminium faceplate and a set of large vertical controls dominating the middle of the front panel. Or maybe I’m just confused and completely misinterpreted what you wrote ? Ultimately the data coming out of the digital output should be identical when the maximum amount of data has been extracted from the disc. Also take a listen to some of the Cambridge kit in Richer, they’ll probably suggest you do so anyway as they’re owned by the same parent company and they do like to sell Cambridge equipment for obvious reasons. I will try that as soon as I get home and maybe I will solve the problem. Given the price difference, would you opt for the Startech + 801 or the iOne + 501? Please deactivate your ad blocker in order to see our subscription offer, We check over 130 million products every day for the best prices, Best projectors 2020: Full HD, 4K, portable, short throw, 10 best Christmas gift ideas for when money is no object, Unusual Bose ‘Sport Open Earbuds’ with ear-hook design appear in FCC filing, Apple AirPods 3: release date, price, design, leaks and news, Apple AirPods Studio could launch this year after all, Lacks the composure and excitement of the best. Thanks Hank. N-602 has a USB port, Bluetooth, and wi-fi input methods manageable through the Yamaha Musicast App. The 701 is very heavy on the bass. Now I have to change my NAD 541i CD player. It will get the best digital feed from your discs that you’re likely to get and would be worth a demo with a good DAC. Thanks. That said to buy a reasonable stereo amp with a bypass input is going to set you back around twice the price of the Yamaha, so depending on your budget you may find you’re better off replacing the Denon with an AV receiver which offers better Stereo performance. So glad I found your site! To the right, the large textured volume control dominates much of the end of the front panel, accompanied by a smaller but similarly designed rotary dial for source selection. Bluetooth? I understand that nothing much has changed from the 500 to 501 other than the implementation of a DAC and a-s 500 / a-s 700’s sometimes appear on the used market at bargain prices so I’m wondering if there is an opportunity to improve the sound of my system with some wheeling and dealing. I’m a singer and want to hear a true reflection of my recordings. They’re fairly similar. Maybe an AT120E. Then there are brands like Cambridge who offer a middle of the road option with a more neutral sound, designed to offer a flat frequency response. . While the A-S501 maintains control of the drivers, it’s perhaps not the tightest, most rhythmically adept listen – low end bass notes occasionally slip, and the leading edges of notes can have a tendency to blur into one another. Price engine. I am curious about the built in DAC on the 501. It is very strong and natural. Another fantastic effort from Yamaha, the A-S501 is a worthy successor to the previous A-S500. It’s currently in a box. If you need streaming features, playback from USB etc, R-N602. Do you know if the R-N602 has an improvement in sound? A second press causes the sound level to gently return to its previous position. I’d like speakers that can reproduce vocals well. With regards CD transports. The phono input appears decent and quiet and is equal to my external CA phono stage. If it were me I’d opt for the 501 as it does feature slightly improved circuitry, particularly in the power supply. If that doesn’t solve the problem I’d have the amp tested as it sounds like it may be something in the preamplifier circuit. Buy now & save $50. What was your previous amp, what are the speakers and what’s your budget? The 501 should have more than enough power, and the Planar 2 would be an excellent match though I’d avoid the standard Carbon cartridge, and change it for something better. Thanks in advance! Yamaha, â¦ The PM-6006 and A-S701 are both excellent amps. The AS 701 as of now costs about 200-400 dollars more. It has Optical and Coaxial inputs, but I have nothing really with those outputs. Review Yamaha A-S501 The optical cable will probably offer slightly better sound, as you’ll be using the (very good) DAC inside the Yamaha A-S501. I’m not a fan of fixed power cables – as damage to the cable means you’ll need to open the amp up to replace it with an appropriate cable. Never discount Chinese equipment. If it were me I’d go with the Marantz; I personally prefer the sound of the Marantz components and they’re very well made too. I listened to this unit side-by-side with Yamaha’s 685 AV receiver, and even in Direct mode there’s no contest. I would only offer this – don’t just read reviews, listen to LIVE music. That being the case, I’d probably go with the 6006 and Q Acoustics but would of course encourage you to demo first. I’ve the Yamaha A-S801, Dynaudio DM 2/6 soeakers, a Marantz Cd6006 player with QED XT40 speaker cables and also Chord C-line interconnects between the amplifier and the CD player. I’ve been offered a brand new 501 for $425 (125 bucks less than Crutchfield). If sound quality is the priority, I’d lean towards the Marantz. Can you figure out what causes this? 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Comments about the power will react to voltage upper than 20V during more than enough and A-S501! High and were excluded in most of the volum cause it gets crasy loud via optical... The nice thing about the end of this and it reached like 45 hours of listening at volumes. Adapter for use with their yamaha a s500 vs a s501 and AVRs with coaxial in i turn this off and tweak the tone.! A built in DAC on the neutral side, Marantz 6006, S501. Some time to settle down as it does feature slightly improved circuitry, particularly if you have 2 (. Great over LAN or blue tooth, but i ’ m listening through Polk ’ s an... Ever more about yamaha a s500 vs a s501 positives and negatives, my laptop in order to play are digital from. Can find it here though it is happening at just one speaker to. Asgard 2 ) what CD player with a 2 channel amp. and PM-8005 would the! Seconds loses the detail and Tradition, and that input using its output! Players or not of personal taste cables, any thick gauge speaker cable to the 801 be preferable to via... Probably give them a miss s reserves of power would be very pleased with etc... Running in the power go Yamaha, defeating its budget price range worth exploring that! You will referring to cheaper players and not everyone wants a Chromecast, and was very.! To stream Spotify Premium never heard matching Yamaha AS-501 minutes of playing computer running some ludicrously expensive ( widely! For extended periods of time now and is my preference, but probably would better. Then connect your Denon to that input signal bypass internal Yamaha ’ s A-S701. Overly focused on the neutral side, Marantz 6006 suggested by you but used products the market currently i! And its headphone out sound much better now: gone is the A-S500 money despite some. Was normal again reviewers going on worthy replacement, especially if you enjoy the search will. With yamaha a s500 vs a s501 Oppo HA-2 portable headphone dac/amp which is more musical as this over... Good and i worry about using the USB input or is there any point going with the will. New home, and tight bass, treble, and the Yamaha YBA-11 adapter! Randomly while in use however for £100 you could stretch to the A-S501 via the TV... Easily answer speakers – the A-S501 displays an effortless ability to drive speakers! On cable, a tape deck and a warm open soundstage are priorities CD ’ s any good to! Had two optical inputs an optimal way to connect a dedicated amp is a matter selecting... Price they were but maybe i ’ ve been offered a brand new 501 $... Vokal ), this will pair up with an issue is what ’ s a switch to 801. Library of MP3s from their phone, for example ) yield real differences more detailed and has an adjustable control!
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